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Haircut

On a warm afternoon in early autumn, soon after I arrived in Beijing, I was walking through a languid park near the Forbidden City when I heard someone call to me. It was a street barber, an old man in a Mao jacket. He had set up a chair beneath a tree, and he wanted my head of hair.

"No way, Jose," I told him. And promptly fled.

Anyone who has seen an occasional photograph of me on this website will know that I sport a truly proud and unruly mop of hair. Once upon a time -- thirty years ago or so -- this thing I call my hair was a fashion statement, I suppose, and a bit of rebelliousness. Today it is simple laziness and unconcern. And as a self-employed person, a writer, I don't have to please anyone but myself. But generally there comes a morning when I look in the mirror and acknowledge that Something Has To Be Done. Shaggy hair doesn't bother me, but my thick mop starts making me look like Albert Einstein on a bad day with his finger in an electric socket.

I began to meditate about a possible haircut in October. Usually I give the urge a few months to grow and mature before I finally break down and visit a barber. But in China I had an additional cause for procrastination: Where would I go for my haircut? And how would I tell the barber not to leave me bald? Every day, I passed dozens of street barbers in Beijing, men who simply set up their trade on the sidewalk -- very quaint to watch, but I wasn't about to risk my own fine head of hair in such a manner. Nor was I at all certain about the various "Beauty Salons" I saw, particularly since the Chinese often spell "salon" as "saloon" -- and as someone who grew up in the American West, this did not seem a promising start.

Finally it was my wife who spurred me into action. She decided she could no longer put off having her own hair done; she phoned a good Chinese woman friend of hers, and made a Saturday appointment for the two of them to go together to a joint-venture Sino-Japanese all-sexes-welcome hairdresser that my wife's friend swore by. Timidly I asked if I could, well, ah, ahem . . . if I could come and have my hair cut too.

Robert at the barber

Now that I have done it, I wonder why I put it off so long. The beauty parlor turned out to be a comfortable, modern place with pop music on the stereo, and magazines full of beautiful people with fabulous hair styles from which to choose the New You -- pretty much like similar hair dressing establishments around the planet. A very nice young man took me in tow, and we began with a shampoo. Back home, I have a lady barber who rubs my head a little in a relaxing manner when she shampoos my head -- but this shampoo came with an authentic head massage that went on for nearly ten minutes and left me limp with pleasure. Then I got bundled up in towels and led back in front of the mirror. I was clipped and trimmed and worked upon for another half hour or so, while our Chinese friend helped with an occasional translation. "No, no more off the top . . . yes, a bit more from the sides, please . . . perfect!"

In the end, I was very pleased indeed. For the price of 30 yuan I look almost exactly like I did before, but subtly neater and better groomed. Now I think you could accurately describe my appearance as Albert Einstein on a good day with his finger in an electric socket. It's very hip, the Mad Genius look, and I recommend it highly.

So I'm a happy camper, and I plan to get another Beijing haircut soon, probably in a year or so.

Next Week: Hard Sleeper, Part One

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