Getting Around in China Without Chinese

Like many Americans, I am not particularly a linguist. But generally I get by. I can ask for the restaurant bill in four or five different languages. I can order a pizza in Rome, complain about the prices in Paris, request another round of Margaritas in Mexico, and even say "Where is the W.C.?" in Russian and Polish. But Chinese is another matter, a language so foreign to my Western ears that even the names of the nice people who sometimes introduce themselves are beyond my ability to say.

After nearly three months in Beijing, I can say, "Hello," "Thank you," "How much is it?" -- and I can even understand the answer to this last question, if the number is from one to ten. And that's the sum total of my Chinese.

"My God, how do you get around Beijing?" an English-speaking local asked me recently, awe-struck by my ignorance.

The fact is, life in China without knowledge of the language is not always easy. Nevertheless, sign-language, gestures, and an optimistic smile will go a long way. In Beijing, like most cities and tourist destinations, street signs are generally written in both the Chinese characters and Pinyin -- a system of writing Chinese with the Roman alphabet that makes life considerably easier for the bewildered foreigner. With Pinyin, it is possible to read street maps as well as figure out bus routes, subway stops, and other essentials. Many shops have their names written in Pinyin on the outside, and often (in Beijing at least) will display whatever service they provide in English: restaurant, beauty parlor, noodle shop, computer sales, etc. Often the English names are absurdly misspelled, but the thought is a sweet one -- an attempt to make the Middle Kingdom more hospitable to the foreigner. On the Beijing subway, the stops are even announced over the loudspeaker in English.

Restaurants can be a greater challenge, and it's a good idea to have a phrase book handy with your favorite Chinese dishes written down in English, Pinyin -- and, most important -- Chinese characters which your waitress will understand. If you have forgotten your phrase book, you can always point to something you see at another table. Sometimes you need to be creative. Once my wife was trying to order chicken, rather than beef, and when all else failed, she started flapping her arms and making clucking noises. The Chinese think foreigners are crazy anyway, so it's good not to disappoint them.

Naturally, there are times when your entire bag of tricks will fail, from bird calls to mime, leading only to blank stares and confused giggles. Do not despair. Just when you least expect it, someone will often step forward from the crowd, address you in English, and offer his service as an interpreter. You can meet some interesting people this way. The other Sunday while my wife and I were struggling in a restaurant to get something to eat, a distinguished looking gentleman at the next table asked if he might be of assistance; he turned out to be a senior member of the judicial system, and had just returned from a trip to the United States. Not only did we end up with dinner, we had a fascinating encounter to boot.

So don't let a lack of language keep you from venturing forth. If you get truly lost, you can always jump in a taxi and head back to your hotel or apartment -- provided you had the forethought to have someone write down your address in Chinese characters.

Next Week: A Tale of Two Restaurants

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