Link to:

Take Me to Your Leaders Leader

One morning while I was playing the piano at the student center of the Beijing university where my wife and I teach, I was approached by a small delegation.

"We wish to invite you for a special party," said one of the men in broken English. "To play piano." "Why, certainly. What is the party for?"
He thought for a minute, struggling for the right words. "How do you say? . . . A party for our leader's leader."
This sounded very grand, so I said yes.
Then we discussed what music I should play.
"Beethoven . . . Mozart," someone suggested optimistically.

I shook my head. "Boogie-Woogie," I told them. "Blues." I played a few riffs to demonstrate. Eyebrows were raised in alarm. Eventually we settled on "Moon River" and "As Time Goes By" -- the only songs in my repertoire that did not jar local sensibilities.

But what sort of party could this be, I wondered? And who exactly was "our leader's leader?" During the next month I was to find out -- it was not a party at all in the American sense, but more a variety show, a performance designed to soften the hearts of 30 important dignitaries who were traveling about China and choosing "The 100 Foremost Universities of the 21st Century." "This is very important," a Chinese friend told me earnestly. "We want you to practice very hard and play well!" Apparently, if our school was included amongst the "foremost" universities, more money would be available; if we flunked, we might as well all look for other jobs in the provinces. And it all depended (I was made to feel) on how well I managed "Moon River" and "As Time Goes By."

As the important day approached, the university was scrubbed and cleaned, colorful banners appeared alongside every walkway, and even the outdoor swimming pool was filled -- though the temperature at night was below freezing. I discovered that our school would be judged on "Eight Points," which included "politeness," the cleanliness of the dorms, the food in the cafeteria, and each student and teacher memorizing completely the school rules. During the two-day period in which the examiners were on campus, boys and girls were warned not to touch one another, or even eat at the same tables in the lunch room. This seemed to me an odd way to judge a university, but in China one learns to accept a different value system.

On the night of our big variety show, the 30 examiners marched into the Student Activities Center to well-coached applause. Young women plied each dignitary with glasses of almond juice. Then the student chorus performed the school song; they were so nervous they got a few beats ahead of the recorded music that was accompanying them. There were stand-up comedy routines and elaborate dance numbers, even a martial arts exhibition -- and yes, two American songs to show what an international place our university was.

I'm sorry to report that we did not make it into the "100 Foremost Universities of the 21st Century," but we did not do so badly that we must seek other employment.

One Chinese acquaintance expressed some bitterness that the quality of education which the students received was only a small part of the general evaluation -- and perhaps not as important as each student being able to recite the school rules. But this is how it is done in China -- at least in the "old China," the huge sections of the country which have not yet evolved with the rapidly changing market economy.

So be prepared for some culture shock. This is a land where appearance may be more important than substance; where buildings often appear grand on the outside, but have fallen into shabby decay as you walk in the door. And the key to success is not the actual work you do, but rather the song and dance you must perform -- how agreeable you manage to make yourself to those who are above you and who decide your fate.

Previous articles

From the Editor in Chief: If you have some travel or work experience in China to share with us, we will be very excited to hear from you! Send your feedback by e-mail or regular mail to ASM Overseas Corporation. Thank you!

And if you liked this column, please check Expats In China (International Community in China) for more interesting and useful information on life in China as a foreigner, including calendar of events, entertainment, housing, employment, classifieds, personal, etc.