Winning & Dining

Cigar opened up in September. Inspired by her favorite Henri Winterman's Slim Panatellas, Olivia is making a collection of fine cigars 'not an easy thing to do in Beijing" and putting them together with various Western dishes to create a decidedly new-concept eatery.

Soups, salad, steaks, spaghetti and pizza pretty much sum up the dining side of things. There wasn't quite as much in the kitchen as there was on the menu the night I happened by, but everyone can have a bad day. The service was delightfully informal and friendly, and the food pleasantly straightforward. Nothing costs more than 100 yuan, and most dishes come in under 50 yuan.

The salad Nicoise was unusual in that tuna took the place usually held by anchovies. The vinaigrette was a winner, though, and all the more so with the mozzarella and tomatoes. Tomatoes in Beijing are usually best avoided, but these had been soaked long enough to render them moist and surprisingly flavorful. The mozzarella was terrific, too.

Arrive early if your tastebuds get affected by smoke, as the end of the evening is likely to be suffused in the fragrance of burning tobacco. Pick a digestif, ask Olivia for advice if you're a cigar novice, then light up and make like you're a big shot restaurant critic. I selected a fat Garcia y Vega English Corona and puffed off.