Seven Days and Seven Nights Down South

by Wu Runmei and Shirley Zhang

Although Spring Festival is already a fading memory, Beijing will hardly feel any warmth before the end of this month. This is the time to head south for an early breath of spring.

Latern FestivalThe First Stop -- Nanjing

Nanjing has been the capital of six Chinese dynasties. Its rich history has left the city with many historical and cultural treasures.

The Qinhui river area is where to start to get a full sense of the local culture. Many buildings are built in traditional southern style. Stalls, small stores and restaurants are scattered along the northern bank of the river. The stores sell antiques, handicrafts and many knick-knacks. Many things bear unique local features such as the clay teapots and colorful lanterns. This area is also famous for the large lantern festivals held here. This year, the traditional Lantern Festival falls on March 2.

Evening is the best time to visit the area. Stalls line the streets selling all kinds of southern snacks. Bigger restaurants offer the full range of local snacks. The set menu of snacks may consist of eight dishes, 24 dishes or even 60 dishes. Each is some delicately made tidbit, just enough for one or two bites. So even if you order the 60-course menu, your stomach won't burst. The Qinhui Renjia Restaurant and Kuixinglou Restaurant are two nice places to taste snacks. The restaurants are built in ancient style by the riverside. You can sit in the corridor or on the outdoor balcony enjoying the lantern-decorated night scene of the Qinhui river. Small ferries are available to take tourists on river cruises.

For the next two days, you can visit other major scenic spots of the city such as Zijinshan (Purple Gold Mountain), Qixia Temple and the former presidential office of Chiang Kaishek. At the same time, you should start to prepare for the next stop ?Suzhou. Long-distance tour buses travel between the two cities every day. They are comfortable, convenient and not expensive. Starting in the early morning, the bus arrives in Suzhou around noon.

The Second Stop -- SuzhouSuzhou

Tour buses stop at Suzhou railway station. As in other tourism areas, some local people will come up and offer to show you "nice and cheap" hotels. DonÕt trust them. Otherwise you will end up checking all their hotels for the whole afternoon. Take a taxi and go to Guanqian Jie, the busiest area of the city where you can find several decent hotels.

Since Suzhou is quite a small town, it will take you only a short time to get there. As for lunch, Xiao Xiao De Yue Lou is the right place to go. It is the best-known restaurant in Suzhou and the prices are reasonable. The area is filled with many restaurants where you can acquire a thorough knowledge of Suzhou cuisine and local snacks.

P39.jpg (13429 bytes)Suzhou's gardens are the most celebrated feature of the city. Zhouzheng Yuan, Wangshi Yuan, Shizilin and Canglangting are the four masterpieces you should check out. Royal gardens in Beijing offer grand and majestic scenes, whereas Suzhou's gardens reveal the elegance and wisdom of Chinese architecture. Their guiding concept of "One step forward, one different view" demonstrates the brilliance and aesthetic judgement of their builders. It may take you hours just to appreciate one small garden.

Suzhou also bears the nickname of the "Oriental Venice" although its canals are rather polluted. But the bridges are still worth seeing, and some of them are hundreds of years old. Fengqiao (Marble Bridge) near the Hanshan Temple is one of the most famous.

The Last But Best - Hangzhou

Trains run between Suzhou and Hangzhou every day. It takes about five hours to go to Hangzhou. You could also opt for the overnight karaoke cruise down the Grand Canal.

An ancient saying goes: "There is a paradise in heaven, and down on earth, there are Suzhou and Hangzhou." Hangzhou certainly holds up its end of the adage well.

The focal point of a visit to Hangzhou is West Lake, an area of striking beauty. Its charm is irresistible.

The best views of West Lake conjure an illusion of sparkling pearls on the waterÕs surface. Each such view is not far from the next. And vehicles are forbidden on the causeways, so a bicycle tour is a good idea.

There are two ribbon-like causeways on the lake -- Bai Causeway and Su Causeway. The first dike was built in 821 AD by the poet Bai Juyi. About 1090 AD, another famous poet, Su Dongpo, who served as the prefect of Hangzhou during the Northern Song Dynasty, had the lake bottom dredged and created some formal gardens along the shore. He also had a second dike built in the west of the lake.

Solitary Hill Island is linked to the north shore by a bridge and to the east shore by Bai Juyi's Causeway, lined with willow and peach trees. The famous Autumn Moon and Calm Lake Pavilion, used as a study retreat by the Qing Emperor Kangxi, derives its name from its striking appearance in the clear and silvery moonlight of autumn.

Other interesting spots surrounding the Lake include Listening to Orioles Singing in the Willows, Watching Fish at Flower Pond, Lotus Flowers in a Breezy Winding Courtyard and Three Pools Mirroring the Moon. Never mind the season, they are beautiful the whole year round.

You can visit interesting places on Hangzhou's outskirts on the second day. And you cannot miss Lingyin Temple, founded by the monk Wei Li in 326AD. This is the best-known monastery in Hangzhou. In the main hall stands a 19m camphorwood statue of Sakyamuni, the founder of Buddhism. The same room contains a group sculpture called "Fairy Island," composed of about 150 figures.

Both traditional Chinese tea houses and Western-style tea bars are popular in the city, since Hangzhou is famous for its green tea. Dragon Well Tea, produced in the hills near West Lake for the last 1,200 years, is the best green tea in China. If you have time, you can go to Longjing (Dragon Well) Village to see how the tea is produced. Three crops are harvested annually -- spring, summer, and autumn -- but the spring leaves are considered to be the most delicate. Depending on the season, visitors are occasionally invited to try their hand at tea-leaf picking.

West Lake also yields the region'ss best food. The most famous dishes are West Lake fish in sweet and sour sauce, shelled shrimp with Dragon Well Tea and West Lake water shield soup. The sweet and sour fish is prepared with a West Lake grass carp, weighing about a half-kilogram and starved for two days. Boiled for three minutes and with sugar and vinegar sauce poured over it, the fish somehow acquires the delicious taste of crab. The shrimp is prepared with the well-known Dragon Well green tea leaves. It is beautiful in color and has a special taste. The water shield comes only from West Lake. Boiled with minced chicken, it tastes wonderfully fresh. Not only big hotels, but also home-style restaurants have these specialties.

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