By Li Mingxia

The plan: We start at Qianmen, turn west and go along the street of Dashilan, through the Yangmeizhu Xiejie to Liulichang, then head south to Guang'anmennei Dajie, farther west until Jiaozi Hutong, turn south to the Fayuan Buddhist Temple, then go to the Ox Street Mosque several hundred meters away, back to the main street, have a look at the Baoguosi Antique Market, go farther west to Tianningsi Flyover and turn south to find the brick tower that's 1,500 years old, and then, if we have time, go to the White Cloud Temple one kilometer away.

The Qianmen area is packed with travelers (whom Beijingers call "waidiren"), migrant workers, shoppers and tourists. They can always find bargains in the stalls along the street.

Next door to the south is the Neiliangsheng Shoe Store, another business that has survived the centuries. The shop has kept a careful record of its celebrity customers since Qing Dynasty and now holds a shoe cultural exhibition on the third floor. From time to time, a shoemaker gives live demonstrations on the first floor, but when we arrive, we're told he's out teaching his apprentice. It's nice to know, though, that somebody is still learning this craft.

Outside the restaurant, a rickshaw rider tells us the turn to Yangmeizhu Xiejie. Surprisingly we find this is a clean, quiet hutong. We venture into one quadrangle's courtyard, and no one seems to notice us. I guess maybe this house is shared by several families.

Several meters away, we see an old man and a little boy playing with an electric cart. They smile at us and then continuing murmuring to the small cart running on the ground. May hides behind a chicken house, and I take her picture.

As we ride on, the smell of Liulichang comes closer. Several small antique shops on the right side of the two forks make us believe it is the way to Liulichang. We're right! After passing a few fruit sellers, we are in the Liulichang Dongjie.

It's noon, and the sun looks bigger in the sky, but we're starting to get tired. Then, "Hey, it's Tianfu," May shouts. I wheel around, saying, "Who? Who?" It's a shop. A tea store. We go in, pretending to look very carefully at their teapots. Immediately a young woman comes up and serves us jasmine tea. It's bitter but all right to quench a real thirst. We sit on the comfortable chair and enjoy a good rest.

To the west is the famous Jiguge Antique Store, the China Bookstore and the Beijing Teahouse. Across the street, we pass by the Kongshantang Restaurant, the Huaxia Book and Painting Store, the Rongbaozhai Antique Store and a private museum. All of them have long histories.

Our next task is to find the Fayuan Temple and the Ox Street Mosque. We decide to walk along the Weiran Hutong to Guang'anmen Neidajie, and then take a bus.

Just then, a tricycle rushes by us. We yell, "Stop!" and run up. It's an old granny. We blurt our first question, "How old are you?"

She proudly answers, "I'm 77! I dance discos every day! That's my way of keeping healthy and having a long life." We tell her how impressed we are and finally ask if Fayuan Temple still exists.

She answers, "I will ride slowly, and you just follow me!"

That's totally unexpected -- a guide! On the way to the temple, we see monks with backpacks and earphones. Later I'm told this is where more than 80 undergraduates study at China Buddhism College.

May and I buy the 2-yuan ticket and enter the quiet temple. First is a small temple (Tianwang Dian) that holds four heavenly gods. A woman is praying to every god. We leave an incense offering and walk into a bigger courtyard. Facing us is a bigger temple (Daxiongbao Dian), elaborated made and decorated, holding the big buddha. Around it are 18 generals. The ground offers long benches or small benches for monks or prayers.

Going back through the side gate, we enter the third courtyard. Here is another big temple. May is reluctant to go in because it looks so solemn. I'm not afraid at all. Here is a buddha with 1,000 hands and eyes. I'm guessing it's bronze because on the surface I can see green tarnish.

One middle-aged woman and a young girl are talking with an old monk. We sit on the bench outside and watch a monk who is late and rushes to class. The class bursts into laughter. They're just like naughty college students, too.

After a brief rest on the bench, we walk in farther. Another, bigger courtyard! In the temple is another buddha. What makes it different is that on the surface of its high pedestal are carved 1,000 buddhas. Incense is burning.

In the fifth courtyard is a big temple with a huge sleeping buddha inside! It is a 4-meter long wood-carved sleeping buddha, one of the three sleeping buddhas in Beijing. Around the buddha there are small cloisonnŽ pagodas and other relics.

The area around Niejie Mosque, has been turned into a construction site to broaden the street. Several shops are having sales. When we reach the mosque, we're told Friday is a special day there and visitors are not allowed.

Even so, I managed to find one picture of the inside of Niujie Mosque.

It's 4pm and we're exhausted. The White Cloud Temple is just several hundred meters away. It gives an impression of being a noisy place during temple fairs, but it is usually a quiet, beautiful place to visit.

If you want to go to the temples and Niujie Mosque, don't go on Wednesdays and Fridays. Niujie Mosque refuses visitors on Fridays, and Fayuan Temple is closed on Wednesdays.